There may be a hint of bergamot in the top notes and sweet iris as a follow-up, but there is a noticeable dose of Artificial Intelligence emerging in new perfumes, according to industry specialists.
The traditional world of perfumes has not been able to turn up its nose to new technology and algorithms even though the industry insists that human sensorial expertise can never be fully replaced.
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The US cosmetics giant Estee Lauder opened a perfume innovation centre in Paris in 2025 that uses AI to mix savoir faire and cutting edge technology and help its billion dollars brands that include Jo Malone of London, Kilian Paris, Le Labo and Tom Ford Beauty, according to Lucas Nanini, the group's vice president for fragrance innovation.
He tests some of the new formulas uncovered on visitors to the Maison des Parfums.
"AI will allow us to work on what we call 'paradoxes'," Nanini told AFP. "For example, how can we create an oil that is rich, yet fine enough to be diffused?"
AI helps perfumers identify oils with properties that would take them years to develop by manual trial and error.
Machine intelligence also helps with regulatory tasks.
